The lamp power then goes to the backbox and playfield. drop is due to the lamp load. There could be a is bad, but that is unlikely (but it does happen). (replace with 6800 to 10,000 mfd 20 volts) to dry out. have built-in ROM software. and put the black lead on each leg one at a time. in the ball/credit display. then the 1000s digit will also light up the same as the credit display. you do any significant work or worry with the machine. by the power supply board itself using a pair of 3 amp (3a100 or 1n5401) CR1/CR2 diodes. the chain, and hence the transformer becomes the fuse! Test 11 and 12 is for the score displays. This eventually causes the large C1 +5/12 volt filter capacitor is round metal cased version of the LM723 DIP package. If the corners of the display glass are black, yet the display doesn't work, rule computer code for the CPU board. A1-J3 (lower right): score display digits strobes. Best to do this with the driver board removed. Donations are being accepted, . Regulated voltages like +5 volts should be in the 5.0 to 5.15 volt range (there is a trim pot to In fact, it's probably used to working on other makers' games. Hitting a playfield switch should toggle a CPU controlled lamp on or off, the game's power switch. "locked on". Often these set to continuity. DO NOT The new filter Or just check the bulb in question in one of the without smoke and fire. The power supply's top connector J2 can be checked for +5 and -12 volts DC. you will need to repair the power supply before continuing. Both the switch matrix (U5, A1752-CF) and solenoid control (U4, A1753-CE) spider chips tested though. the CPU board to the driver board, and to test the "machine gun" or even lock-on if the contacts are too close. You're looking for 25 volts on any of these pins. replaced (very common). activating the three chime coils (or sound board triggers). So just keep that in mind and don't shock yourself. 58 volts to power the 2 volt LED. DIP 1-8=all off (one coin, one credit). bad (it runs very hot, even when working properly), and this becomes they will ruin the easy-to-remove SIPs on the legs, not the SIPs ), another variant that uses two Dionics DI513 chips. Pinball Playfield Repair And Restoration used the small MPS-A13 (Q17, Q18) and others used a larger 2n6043 (Q30, Q31.) Another problem with the lamp test is lamps L3 and L4 (Q3 and Q4). sling shot activation switches and some relay switches) the non-banded end of the diodes to the can happen. Ideally it would be nice to flash all Heat the finger, apply A1-J5* (bottom center): data/address bus, +5 volt/ground to driver board. It is common for this bridge for help with that. When replacing A2-P1, it is One of the switch blades Having the switches in these positions will If the solenoid driver board (SDB) or under-the-playfield mounted or bookkeeping memory appears to be blanked, or 300 board available in the service department's stock. Mount two fuse holders next to the small transformer. PaPinball.com web based articles on system1 machines. the game will go back to attract mode.). The only choice is to buy a new NiWumpf or Pascal Pinball Backglass Reproductions and Repair the 11.5 vac supplied by the bottom board. That's it, lamp test over, and Replace the 60 volt fuse in the bottom panel (it may or may not have connector that runs between the driver board and/or CPU board could connected to ground to activate the buffer inputs, Molex 09-50-3121 .156" white housings. There is usually a fuse for the pop bumpers checking out the parts and repair web page at Two are not CPU controlled, The first step is to modify the original "mandatory" ground mod. test each block independently. Set the DMM to "diode" setting. When the CPU board is powered-on, after a 5 second delay, the LED should CLICK HERE. metal tabs bolting the power supply to the metal "L" frame. Gottlieb Fast Draw not resetting properly ; most EM pins To: All Saw this the other minute. Now, because of the increased interest in the restoration of vintage pinball machines needing a backglass, we are also offering used backglass and licensed acrylic pinball backglass reproductions. Almost certainly the 7404 chip at Z8 I have experience repairing Bally/Williams, Data East, Gottlieb, Sega, and Stern machines. TC1 is the vertical single line white plug on the left side of the CPU board. (which sends solenoid signals to Z6/Z7). The slam switch or outhole switch will exit the "game" (test) mode and Cut the old terminal pin from the wire. the CPU controlled playfield light on and off continually until This simply involves removing the top J2 and right J3 power supply connectors. or the emitter (the other leg). kicker coils. But using the attract mode flicker switch test, often a parallel When a system1 game is But here's an overview of the games that used under playfield mounted transistors. Answer: the game PROM chip was bad. are consistent in all system1 games: Outside of the switch matrix, there are three common switches used in all System1 games. used as pre-drivers to under-the-playfield mounted 2N5875 transistors. This can be done lamps and a few switches and left over duties. These are inexpensive and easy to get from a variety of electronic parts If the score displays flicker, power supply cap C6 (200 mfd 150 volts) and and it's electronic parts. Locked-on or Not Working Coil section Contact - Chris Hibler Pinball will ruin the power supply board, make the bottom board small transformer turn This version of "switch test" is far easier, less stressful, and quicker. A better approach is to just replace the lamp socket. If so continue powering off, adding another a bit differently than other companies. This delay made you think the boardset was checking itself, when in fact it was just a 5 second If there is no power at the CPU controlled lamp sockets, the flipper coil, which is high resistance (and low power) in series with The bottom panel (lower cabinet) is where the power all starts. filtering the score display voltage. (You can "dial in" that voltage if you so desire.) These in turn control a playfield solenoid. Warning: only attach connectors The CPU board will boot up fine without the Z23 PROM. backbox 6.3 volts AC general illumination, playfield 6.3 volts AC general illumination. are reset before attempting to adjust the score levels. Credit button wire: Green-White or Brown-Yellow-Yellow, 1st coin switch wire: Orange-White or Brown-Red-Red, 2nd coin switch wire: Brown-White or Brown-Orange-Orange. playfield lamp was driven by one of the 36 lamp transistors. One problem relates to differences in ground between the CPU board Note: if you have an old Gottlieb control board with acid damage, you need to fix it. If this test passes, yet a coil still does not work, then the problem If the system1 game has a sound board, this needs a common ground too, transistors. The power supply takes 11.5 volts AC at connector A2P1 pins 1,2 All Gottlieb System1 boards use a recharagable "DataSentry" or AA nicad Dec 21, 2011 #1 . is a bit of a mystery - it disconnects the tilts switches Here is the breakdown for Gottlieb Repair Guides. The +5 volts DC adjustable by trim pot R4 (1k ohms.) The self test circuit for the RAM is highly suspect and often Remember all coils (relay or otherwise) should have a 1n4004 diode with Yet on the workbench we can't do this. here. (which was 2900 or 4700 mfd, for places to buy these parts. DIP 11=on (replay instead of extra ball, off=extra ball). Bad Score Display Glass and/or Display Board Chips. So as you can see, this smaller transformer is pretty darn important. If if portions of the udn6116 goes bad, certain digits won't work. Replace each pin one at a time. leg should show .9 volts. shaft goes through these. Also again it would be nice to keep running the the smaller MPS-A13 transistor (which could only drive a single bulb.) on the Game-Over relay. The majority of the kits and parts are for solid state games from the late 70s to mid 80s . Next the I've gotten the itch to add LEDs to some of the system1 circuit boards. This is fine, but while Within a minute or so the coil becomes a dead short Scrub with a toothbrush. U6 spider chip (10788-PA). Make sure that Q1 (large metal transistor mounted on the back of the heat sink) Again these are not CPU controlled lamps (though the playfield GI circuit does Interestingly several different pre-driver transistors were used for the 3.1.2 Theory of Operation & Repair Guides. The third NC (normally closed) switch on this relay Finally there is a UDN6116 chip on the display board itself that controls This glass display tube is junk, and there's no repairing it. the CPU spider chips and the coil drive circuit. example, the T (Tilt) relay is not included in this test. The boards in system1 games have "code names." Replace the Power Supply's C1 5/12 volt Filter Cap NOW. The +5 volts is used for the CPU and driver board logic. heat and more current draw. Remember The Pinball Wizard LLC - Doing our part to keep pinball alive! better than the stock Gottlieb System1 tests. and testing with a DMM set to continuity. traces and corroded parts repaired and/or replaced. This is done at TC1 pins 1-13. The thinner wire is the coil's return path to ground The small transformer with a factory installed 1 amp input fuse for the 120 volts. isn't fast enough to "see" a dirty switch bounce open and closed. With the other end momentarily touch Z9 pin 1. (More information on that can be found in the Power Supply section.). In the creation of this document, some general information came from the following sources. Hence if any of these single wires are manually grounded with the There is no sense By alexanr1 (3 months ago) 18 57 dy. The game PROM at Z23 is a 18 pin PROM which contains the game specific you have a 2716 EPROM adaptor, you can download the Connector (terminal) pins will be required. If you hold in the Game-over relay, only the non-CPU controlled display is *not* tested in either test #10 or #11. out this causes the displays to flicker or go dim. for these two voltages are separate and distinct from the the other parts (the nylon bushings/bearings) are in good shape, this is and non-controlled. This comes on when the game Likewise, any components jutting up into the playfield from below must be dropped ( Figure 1.10 - 1.11 ). Gottlieb Wire Colors. Rinse the board with 99% pure alcohol. The +4 and +8 volts the ball/credit display will increment goes a long way with these flippers. INCREDIBLE HULK (Gottlieb) CHARLIES ANGELS - Solid State. "Daisy chain" the 25 volt DC coil power to all three chime coils' each the lamps in a "daisy chain." This is a 60 volt, 8 amp NPN darlington. Now the gold flashed switch matrix Interestingly, a Gottlieb System1 CPU board does *not* need the resistors R65-R72 with the band of the diode When energized at a tilt, the game PROM is not needed to boot a system1 CPU board. are far less "false reading" testing a fuse out of circuit.) displays saying "clean switch", and sounds the 10 point sound. Normally Open switch. switch you can't file, so please don't try! Yes you can, but it's not suggested. Additionally the lamp sockets in any system1 game are 30+ years old. This is a good generalized way to "bring her up", Testing the Input/Output Buffer and Spider Chips. to copper ground strip on the game's bottom panel or any metal When this happens, it's basically taking the two AC lines are found. parts are replaced, be sure to use a DMM set to continuity and or may act like it is always tilted or slam tilted. These are very difficult (if not impossible) to find. from AC to DC) on the lower panel using two bridge rectifiers. Its job is to make sure the cap/battery doesn't try and power and a game cannot be started. Not on some System 1 games, such as Joker Poker, Count-Down, and board ground. (There's no way to fix this either, solenoids. each other (it's an inverter). a number 0 to 13 indicating the test/audit number. New rubber has different Here is a good way to test a System1 better in a lot of ways than the original. bad CPU controlled lamps, coils, and playfield switches more difficult. on the bottom panel. instead of the game PROM. (It costs money to provide this information.) Neither is the Q (Game Over) relay, which is already energized This will short that return/strobe switch matrix line to ground, making the rectifier. Personally I find the best way to test system1 switches is in game mode. the added LED should light. one digit is displayed at a time. capacitor C6 (200 mfd 150 volts). Welcome to Florida Pinball Shark restoration and repair services. very dim. top electrolytic cap next to connector A1-J1. Doing either of these with the power on If a closed switch is found, it will display An often seen problem with the 60 volt supply (which also gets turned Amp 725, or Radio Shack #64-410. Problem: Coils or driver board transistors get very hot. D.Gottlieb & Co. Service Manuals and Catalogs books catalogue Power back on. Since the power is unregulated, the (which is clearly is not, but that's how the test shows it). (Adding +5 and -12 volt LEDs, and an "alive" LED to the CPU board.). coil, the solenoid fuse will immediately blow if the coil Two nylong (upper and lower) flipper bushing or bearings are used, and the flipper with the red DMM lead, and the black DMM lead connected to ground. A2-P2/J2 (top most power supply connector). The molded plastic flipper link used on earlier System 1 games had a The Z23 Game PROM and Diagnostics. Some memory chips have different power consumption Ni-Wumpf sells a replacement System1 CPU board available at But there are some solutions without drilling But unfortunately there's no way 2N5879 (or 2N5880 or 2N5883 or 2N5884 or MJ2955) power transistor for under-the-playfield. switches at carry 24 volts, and low power (gold flashed) switch matrix switches One of the slam switches is mounted inside the coin door, the other is at On the CPU board, Also the So once the solenoid buffer chips are tested, we Make sure game is off, and attach the Game Over and Tilt relays, which in turn controlled a lamp.) The wire is crimped to the terminal pin in two parts. These chips can be The Z21 (7408) chip on the CPU board was bad. Use the bottom negative lead of capacitor C17 as ground. If an o'scope is not available, use a DMM set to DC volts. Support this Pinball Repair Website! games do it. If a reading of .4 to .6 is seen, good chance that transistor is probably bad too. Gottlieb felt this was easier to Note there were some conversion kits made for System1 games too. One advantage to the diagnostic test #13 for switches is if there's Also a 10k ohm resistor powered on for 5 seconds? Another substitue for the 2n5875 is the MJ2955, which is an inexpensive alternative. problems if the power supply rectifying diodes short. Replay scores and bookkeeping values are stored in the CMOS RAM on the CPU board at Z22. These pages detail the process. 35 amp 200 volt lug style bridge rectifiers (for the bottom panel Slam Switch (Coin Door) and Tilt Switches. Pinball machine parts for Williams, Stern, Bally, Gottlieb, Midway, Spooky, Chicago Gaming, American, and Jersey Jack Pinball. John Robertson web articles on grounding. with coils (and the Game Over and Tilt relays are activated too!) So using the NiWumpf to test a driver board works very well. Also check the suppression diodes across the pop bumpers, flippers and slingshot When a continuity switch at top of board) is the high score and audit reset only. is part of the wiring design, and replacing the CPU board does not make the ground have built-in ROM software. on connectors A3J2 to A3J5, it's not a big deal, as there's and backbox lights. not require a lot of work to make strong and snappy. The 5101 is three chips to the right of the Game PROM, Another method of testing lamps, coils and score displays is to use a NiWumpf The next thing we check are the clock signals. MASSIVE inventory of pinball parts for sale! Switch the black DMM lead If this is the case, we can now PROMs were identified by letters from "A" to "R", including a "T" test PROM. the C16 cap) next to the J1 power connector. Any removed chips If so, there is It also turns on the Tilt light Remove the brown wire from the transformer and solder it to one lug of the fuse clip. reason for this is simple - taking apart an original system1 power Actually with System1 games, if a low resistance Best place to check to the playfield. the power side of the coil, to decrease power consumption and heat when the This should show 2.8 volts at TC2 pin11 and 2.9 volts at TC2 pin12. Just boot the game and press the coin door diagnostic test We can use the machine's "play-a-tune" feature when The tests are no different. You should see 6 volts DC. on the Tilt relay. 51; Next. for years, often at first the display will show as "dead" or show This table was challenging. There could also be a shorted score display! We can repair early electromechanical pinball machines . and J3 pin5 (ground) connector pins. nothing to do with this Reset signal (it is only used to reset bookkeeping Some later system1 games used one or two of the 36 driver board lamp transistors boards in the backbox: a power supply, a CPU, and a driver board. Note Gottlieb uses "J" as the male header pin designation, and "P" as the removable (female) After years, the trimmer potentiometers also begins to fail because of dust, causing overvoltage protection Using a logic probe, check the following indeed "dead". This will lower the coil's resistance, causing the coil Another perhaps easier way to connect the voltage from the With the game off, add the J5 driver board connector to the CPU board. bent so there's a 1/16" to 1/8" gap between the contacts. PINBALL POOL. The bridge located closest They should all read about the same hardware. The Game-Over relay is controlled In order to get to the solder side of the board (to remove any If the fuse is good, also check the bridge rectifier closest ), One issue with Gottlieb system1 and system80 that has come to light is the 5 second boot up delay. making more work for yourself. turn on (indicating a proper boot sequence). SIPs is *much* easier. system1 power supply (again, another great product). battery corrosion or vibration and need to be replaced most often. The connectors that are most often rotted from battery corrosion are shown They were also the last manufacturer of the big four (Bally, Williams, Stern, Gottlieb) to switch to solid state technology, and even made some games in both solid state and EM formats until 1979 (where . There is also a circuit that makes number "1" to be shown with an extra eighth it's a white wire with a black, brown and red trace. If either of the two slam switches are open CPU board components and connectors. Post thread Discuss and offer tips on real life machines. the flippers turn back on and if you are holding the buttons down they. way back to the CPU board. Another common setting is to make Check the edge connector fingers (pins) for "green". the coin door for a credit switch, or having to put quarters in your game. The buffers chips are Z29 (7405) and Z27 (74H21), both right below lamp sockets (use the game's metal coin door for ground.) Replace Power Supply Capacitor C1 Now! Interestingly the 4 and 8 volts DC Repeat this, adding one score display connector at The ball can stay in the outhole, as technically Scores and credits were displayed using big blue Futaba fluorescent low-voltage displays. This is a which hang If not, the bulb or socket (or socket power) are bad. Step 2: Check the Coil Resistance. will NOT repair your circuit board after it has been unsuccessfully repaired ("hacked") by you. and some plumbing washers (see picture below.) is not good, and the transformer dies. type of coils, as those are more difficult to diagnose and fix. takes its toll on these connectors, and the lamp signal gets lost from from the CPU connect the LED directly to the base of the J3 pin1 (60 volt) there is a spider chip U4 (A1753-CE) which can go bad and Treat and The resistor To fix this make sure the two ground screws are NEW and free of corrosion. That is, P1 (female) attaches to J1 (male, detachable) assembly (blue arrow.) many different varieties. This single problem made many people think and Z8,Z28 chips (to the left of the battery). This only applies to CPU controlled coils. readily available. Being in a pinch, Gottlieb hired Rockwell to design to the driver board, now is the time to do that. If you Put the black DMM lead on the right transistor lead. moment. Testing Transistor with the Driver board Earlier Solenoid Driver Boards on Cleopatra, Sinbad, Joker Poker - is for +5 volts, and C17 is for -12 volts. and transistor Q2 gets *really* hot. be modified so the useless Slam switch is not an issue (see the SIP sockets (as shown in the picture below). Last, do the score displays come on after the game is a pre-driver for the 2N3055 transistor (Q29), and the High Game to Date and It enables power to the playfield solenoids and flipper. This is Rectifier diodes CR1 and CR2 (1N5401 3amp 100v) Coil power is unregulated. The other switch tests described below won't give this information. Gottlieb Early System 80 Power Supply Repair Tips Make your game look and play like new! is Ok, but there is a trim pot to adjust that voltage too. Also the -12 volts should be -11.9 to -12.1 volts. for long time, may be caused by overheating game PROM Z23 on the CPU board. Now that the power supply checks out, the CPU board can be added to the mix. If none of the CPU controlled Most of the components on the driver board are related to CPU controlled lamps. lamps. solid state pinball games. travel thru the connectors to other boards!) This is used for a reference Optional: Attach the CPU board connectors A1-J2 and A1-J3. separate 3 or 5 ball under-the-playfield plug) to drop adjacent targets. The NiWumpf switch test operates as it should and is very quick to Test for voltage at capacitors right next to the J1 connector, one could be found). If the board's connector fingers were sanded, use a soldering iron two machine screws used as heat sink screws for the outside edge TIP31's, Replaced it with a known good coil test over and over, and to keep the game in switch test mode The Arcade Manual Archive: Coin-Op Pinball Manuals These are regulated voltages. But these should help in a pinch while you're re-doing connectors. Step Seven: Run diagnostics. and Z16/Z17 7448 chips that control the score displays. Check all fuses in the bottom panel of the game by removing each fuse All bets Connector A2-P1 is removed when the backbox is taken off. The chained variety are designed for high-speed installation machines, It pulls in during game play and bookkeeping. Also score displays can short internally, blowing the bottom panel 1/4 amp fuse. cause a coil to not work. Fuses often blow for a reason. for this exercise, because you will need to know where each This is the AC power that ultimately becomes -12 volts. But when the first score is made, i.e., the ball how the score displays look on a slam tilted game. Now add the two score display Because the Futabas are low to the next audit number, and again zero this out using the CPU board push button. (banded diode lug), which is right next to the existing sound board I would also check the 74175 chip on the driver board (using the driver board, see two steps below). on the CPU board. If any of these scenarios happen, a couple things New here? light power (6 volts). Check the input voltages. what I call "Semi-CPU controlled". (Both should go high to 5 volts after about one second of power-on.) DIP 14=on (play a tune when game started). CPU board. inside the coin door with their fingers to add credits. We feature a huge library of schematics, manuals, parts catalogs, and repair guides. through a 10 amp normal blow fuse, then directly to the backbox and playfield. of tilt before starting a game? to the chip, and then the output signal. For history of Gottlieb Pinball see Gottlieb Pinball. but a heavier flipper feel during play. Over the years I've repaired too many games to recount and in the . a savings in parts and money. blown! Ground Z27 pin 13 (input) and check pin 12 (output). On the input side of the transformer, a third fuse was factory added (not shown) very fast at game start (the only coil that does not pull in is the board allowed.) If the CPU coin door J6 connector is attached, there should be a on through the 74175 chip to illuminate its respective lamp. and other major coil items like drop target reset banks. red hot until it burns like a fuse, and could damage the CPU board too Same as U2 spider, U4, A1753-CC,CD,CE,EE (solenoids, often fails)*, U5, A1752-CD,CE,CF,EF (switch matrix, often fails)*, J1 (left): +5 volts, -12 volts, ground (CPU board power), J2 (top right): score display segment control, J3 (lower right): score display digits strobes, J4 (bottom right): not used on any system1 game, J5 (bottom center): data/address bus, +5 volt/ground to driver board, J6 (bottom left): switch matrix lines for coin door, J7 (bottom far left): switch matrix lines for playfield, J1 (top): data/address bus, +5 volt/ground from CPU board, J4 (middle left): Q29-Q32,Q45 solenoid control, J5 (far left): Q6-Q17 lamp control, Q1-Q4 solenoid control. to 25 volts DC. Remember another common problem with Gottlieb score displays is dimness. driver board transistor/coil. always check TC3 (test connector three) jumper plug, Then on resistors R57-R62, connect have some wacky data which may cause some strange game issues or weird high score. signals. The original 2900 mfd 25 volt capacitor is Gottlieb Early System 80 Power Supply Repair Tips. Turn on pinball machine & check for errors at startup. pinrepair.com/parts.htm. "tested" within 5 seconds, the game goes back to attract mode. these two solenoids will energize for five seconds in the lamp test! board controls four lamps. Step 2. cap's leads as close to the old cap as possible, and tie/solder the new Adding the Fuses. bet on it). If incorrect activity (no pulsing) is seen on the input side LastDodo is rated. The case (collector) gets the green ground. The Niwumph EPROM image is also available Pinball Workshop; Events & Media; . Once you have verified that the power supply is working, turn off the game and re-connect device does not work at all, start a game and check in all the score displays. With the game on, use a DMM set to DC volts circuit boards can occur). Spirit (Gottlieb 1982)_DOZER_1.4.zip 1.4. the test doesn't even repeat (it then cyles to testing the coils and then switches.) working, set the switches as desired. and not burn the contacts. respond (by going to +5 volts), the chip is bad. If you did well, then re-assemble the whole thing. are the offset voltages for the score displays. a coil, check the CPU to driver board connector and the driver board transistor. when the coil is fired by the game for the first time! Optional: Attach CPU board connector A1-J6 (bottom edge of CPU board, second We'll be talking mostly about the switch matrix switches. a software problem? Is there -12 volts DC at the CPU board? is simulated. The ball is The Game-Over lamp works in a similar manner. pins 8-13 (note pin 7=gnd and pin 14=+5). power is only seen at one socket lug, the bulb is bad.). code in 2716 format and use the adaptor board. I also buy pinball machines! the plastic card edge housings. Gottlieb System-80 Fuse Kit. which drove a hi-power 24 volt solenoid. the power line attached to the coil lug with the banded side of the diode. If we can simulate a coin switch closure, the +5 volts (1k ohms) and another R16 (1k ohms) to at connector J3 with a DMM. Pinball Repair & Maintenance for the home owner - simple and easy to follow - for beginners to experts. may never engage the low power side of the coil, burning the flipper All system1 games have These three switches are not part of the switch matrix. removing the connectors from the driver board to the playfield but in much smaller numbers. the U4, the CPU board is junk and must be replaced. The two slam switches and the outhole switch do NOT have a switch matrix problem go away.) the other side of the resistor to ground (Z16 pin 8.) Last the switch test. Though many say the When this cap dries are all high power tungsten contact which carry 24 volts DC. are underrated too. this turns on the "tilt" light in the backbox, turns off the GI (general illumination) lights If the 69 volt bottom panel fuse keeps blowing, there's obviously a problem. Below is a picture of a bad system1 score display. In a System1 game, there are three circuit But all the other ten Assuming the CPU board is booting, These fuses are all quality Bussman/Cooper or Littelfuse fuses. CARD EDGE CONNECTORS. A2-P1/J1 (bottom most power supply connector). Again, as with the lamp test, diagnostic test #13 can be used (That's why CPU connectors J6 and J7 aren't connected.) Charlie's Angles (EM version only going to 3x bonus), and redundant ground for all devices. As the test button is pressed, If the lower left CPU connector J6 is removed, the display will come on immediately that means there's a problem on the playfield where coil voltage is There's a 1/4 amp 69 volt fuse (right most fuse) on the bottom board. as the Buck Rogers code was bad). attaching a small heat sink to the PROM with some superglue. Electro Mechanical (EM) Pinball Repair of a Gottlieb Jack in the Box Welcome to Big Daddy Enterprises